A piece of freshly cooked fish without a squeeze of lemon is a serious crime against the laws of cooking.
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Well, at least in my book. The freshness and vibrant acidity simply lift the tender, white flesh into a punchier domain and distil its flavour. Tomatoes, with a sweeter and milder kind of acidity, can do something similar. Yet they also bring an earthiness with them, an echo of the flavour of the soil. This is why tomato sauces — a whole range of them, varying from each other immensely depending on where in the world they are cooked — work so well with fish.
They seem to marry the essences of the land and sea into something new and wholly delicious, highlighted by a hit of much-needed acidity. The rasam broth is so bold and intense that a simple, seared fish is all you really want with it.
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Make this dish your own by using any fish or seafood available to you, or make it vegan by adding some cooked vegetables instead of fish aubergine or potato would work well here. Serve on its own or with steamed white or brown rice. For the tamarind rasam 50g tamarind block the wet Thai variety 30g ginger , skin left on and thinly sliced 15g fresh turmeric , skin-on, and thinly sliced 1 green chilli , roughly sliced, seeds and all 20g Salt.
Make the rasam: put the tamarind, ginger, turmeric, green chilli, 1. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium and simmer gently for 20 minutes, stirring to break apart the tamarind pulp.
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Strain through a sieve into a large bowl, pressing to extract as much flavour as possible. Discard the solids. Toss the tomatoes in one and a half teaspoons of oil, and put a large saute pan on a high heat. Once smoking, add the tomatoes, and cook, tossing occasionally, until charred and blistered — about five minutes — then set aside. Reduce the heat to medium-high, add the lemons and cook until charred, about a minute per side, then set aside. Let the pan cool slightly then, on a medium-high heat, add the remaining two tablespoons of oil to the pan along with the cumin and mustard seeds, dried chillies, curry leaves and garlic, and cook for one minute, until fragrant.
Add the grated tomatoes and cook for five minutes more, then add the sugar, tamarind liquid, charred tomatoes and half a teaspoon of salt. Bring back up to a boil and simmer for eight minutes on a medium heat. While the sauce is simmering, season the fillets all over with a half-teaspoon of salt.
Put a large, nonstick frying pan on a medium-high heat with a tablespoon of oil. Once hot, lay in the trout, skin-side down, and cook for five minutes, or until the skin is golden and crispy. With a spatula, gently transfer the trout fillets to the sauce, skin-side up. Leave to cook on a medium heat for about four minutes, until just pink in the centre or longer if you like yours more cooked.
To serve, transfer the trout, skin-side up, to four shallow bowls. Pour the rasam all around and add the lemons. Sprinkle with the coriander and serve. Alternatively, some Greek yoghurt and plain rice will balance it all out. Get ahead by making the sauce in advance; its flavours will only intensify as it sits in the fridge overnight. First, make the sauce. Put the ancho chilli in a small bowl, cover with plenty of boiling water, and leave to soften for 20 minutes. Drain, discard the liquid, roughly chop the chilli then put in a food processor with two-thirds of the caraway and cumin, all the garlic, onion and two tablespoons of oil, and blitz into a coarse paste.
Add the remaining two tablespoons of oil to a large saute pan on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the ancho sauce, green chilli and tomato paste and cook for seven minutes, stirring often, until softened and fragrant. Add the grated tomatoes, stock, ml water, sugar, half the coriander, one and a quarter teaspoons of salt and a good grind of pepper, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer for 15 minutes. Keep warm on a low heat until needed. Meanwhile, make the kofta. Put in a large bowl with the spring onion, dill, chilli, lemon zest, egg, panko, remaining coriander, caraway and cumin, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, and mix well to combine.
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